There is a precise moment, in the early afternoon in Verona, when the main crowds all converge on the same hundred metres — via Cappello, piazza delle Erbe, the stretch toward the Arena. The city absorbs them, but it also concentrates them. Those who know how to move shift a hundred steps sideways and find silence. Those who don't go home convinced that Verona is overcrowded. This guide exists for those hundred steps.
The tourist-free alleys: where to go when via Cappello is packed
The Verona that never appears in mainstream guidebooks does exist — it is central and reachable on foot. The first address to keep in mind is Vicolo Vetri, in the Veronetta district. Walking that alley leads to Corticella Vetri: a small public square with a well and an olive tree, stone walls, and the atmosphere of a village frozen in time. Tourists rarely make it here, and those who do have usually taken a wrong turn — which makes it a genuine oasis of calm.
Closer to the heart of the centre, via Sottoriva runs along the Adige beneath low, dark porticoes, past 13th- and 14th-century buildings and the occasional osteria with tables outside. It is without doubt one of the most characterful streets in the city: medieval arcades, artisan workshops, and small antique shops that are true hidden gems. You can reach it in five minutes from piazza delle Erbe without crossing a single "tourist menu" sign.
For those who want a detail worth telling: Piazzetta Tirabosco, between via Pellicciai and Corso Porta Borsari, is a spot that sits right in the centre yet is nearly invisible. It was once known as San Marco in Foro, after a church recorded as far back as 1172. In 1986 the Roman Curia was identified here: a large square hall measuring 27 by 28 metres. Few tourists know this. Stop, lift your eyes from your phone, look at the stones.
The sign that you are on the right track away from the crowds? Every era has left its mark in concrete form: a carved stone in an alley, a mysterious inscription, a market measure cut into a wall. Many of these details remain invisible to anyone moving through the city in a hurry. Slow down. Verona rewards those who walk at a gentle pace.
Juliet's Balcony in 2026: what has changed (and what it actually costs)
Juliet's Balcony is the most photographed spot in Verona. It is also the one that, in 2026, has undergone the most significant change. It is worth knowing this before you arrive, not after.
From 1 April 2026, entry to the Courtyard and Casa di Giulietta takes place exclusively through the Teatro Nuovo in Piazzetta Navona, where visitors are welcomed by multilingual staff and a dedicated exhibition on the history and legend of the lovers. After the visit, exit follows a one-way route through the archway on via Cappello. Gone is the chaotic crowding under the portico: there is now order, controlled access, and timed entry slots.
The 2026 admission prices are as follows: Teatro Nuovo and Courtyard: 5 euros. Teatro Nuovo, Courtyard, and Casa di Giulietta: 12 euros. Tickets can be purchased exclusively online at verona.midaticket.it. Booking is mandatory even for those entitled to free admission, including VeronaCard holders. Without a reservation, entry is not possible — not even to glimpse the courtyard from the threshold.
A detail very few people know: the famous balcony is the result of assembling 14th-century marble fragments that, until 1920, lay in the Museo di Castelvecchio as stones awaiting reuse. Shakespeare never set foot in Verona. The balcony was built in the twentieth century. And yet it works — millions of people a year come looking for it. There is something deeply Veronese about this: the city has always known how to turn legend into architecture.
Opening hours from 1 April 2026: Monday from 14:00 to 19:00, Tuesday through Sunday from 9:00 to 19:00. Closed on 25 December and 1 January. The local tip: book the first morning slot on a Tuesday or Wednesday. The courtyard breathes, the light is soft, and the queues have not yet formed.
The tourist tax in Verona: how much it is, when you pay it, and who is exempt
It arrives at check-out, it is not included in the price shown online, and every year it catches someone off guard. Better to know in advance.
The tax is applied for a maximum of four overnight stays per person per month, with rates confirmed for 2026 as well. Amounts range from 1.50 to 5 euros per person per night, depending on the type of accommodation: less for hostels, more for higher-category properties. In Verona the rate remains the same in both high and low season, so there are no surprises tied to the time of year.
Who is exempt? Minors under the age of 15, and those staying in youth hostels or ONLUS-accredited facilities. Also exempt are patients receiving treatment at public or private healthcare facilities in the area, along with one accompanying person, as well as individuals with severe disabilities. To claim an exemption, documentation is required: simply ask the property at check-in.
A figure that gives a sense of the scale of tourism in Verona: in 2025 the tourist tax generated approximately 8,865,000 euros in total, with 45% coming from short-term holiday rentals. Part of this sum goes to the Fondazione Lirica, the city's greatest driver of tourist visits. Paying the tax, in the end, means contributing directly to the upkeep of the Arena where you may well go to hear Aida.
Does the tourist tax apply to holiday apartments too?
Yes. The tax is payable by anyone staying overnight in an accommodation facility, including holiday rentals, located within the territory of the Comune di Verona. Those renting an apartment in the centre pay it in exactly the same way as hotel guests.
Do I need cash to pay the tourist tax?
Not necessarily. Guests pay the tax to the property manager at the same time as settling their accommodation bill. The manager collects it and subsequently remits it to the Comune. Ask your property which payment method they prefer at check-in.
Is booking Juliet's Balcony compulsory even for VeronaCard holders?
Yes, without exception. VeronaCard holders access both itineraries free of charge, but a reservation through the official portal remains mandatory. Book before you travel: slots fill up quickly on summer weekends.
For your next stay in Verona, consider the apartments of The Verona Stay: The Verona Stay Arena (Via Roma 21, steps from Piazza Bra) and The Verona Stay Ristori (near the Teatro Ristori) place you at the centre of everything — hidden alleys included — with no need for a map.