There is a type of traveller who wraps everything up before leaving. Books the apartment, marks the dates on the calendar, downloads the offline maps. Not anxious — simply freer once on the ground. This article is written for them, and for anyone who would like to be a little more like them. Three dossiers, three concrete answers, one city of the Scaligeri and Italy's most beloved lake.
Dossier 1 — Tocatì 2026: the official dates and why booking early pays off
The festival runs on Friday 18, Saturday 19 and Sunday 20 September 2026 in the Veronetta neighbourhood, on the right bank of the Adige. The guest of honour for this edition is Ireland, with its traditional games, music and dances. That is no small detail: every year the visiting delegation completely reshapes the festival's sonic and visual identity.
For three days, this UNESCO-recognised event brings communities from across Italy and Europe into the historic centre of Verona to demonstrate, teach and celebrate the folk games that have shaped regional identities for centuries. The name — Tocatì — comes from the Veronese dialect and means "it's your turn": an invitation the festival takes seriously.
A practical tip: Saturday afternoon and Sunday are the busiest moments. Arriving on Friday or in the early morning hours guarantees a more intimate atmosphere, even if the energy of the crowded moments has a charm all its own. Admission is free and no booking is required. The historic centre is entirely walkable, though comfortable shoes make a real difference on the cobblestones.
Guests staying in the centre — in Veronetta or close by — have the advantage of being able to walk home after dinner, when the squares still carry the scent of play and Celtic music.
Dossier 2 — Car-free Garda: how it actually works in 2026
Summer traffic on Lago di Garda is a fact, not an exaggeration. The lake risks becoming a victim of its own success: without far-sighted planning, the visitor experience itself is compromised. The good news is that in 2026 the alternatives to the car exist, are up and running, and — in some cases — are faster than driving.
On the Trentino side, the Bus&Go service returns in 2026: an on-demand minibus operating in the municipalities of Arco, Riva del Garda and Nago-Torbole, in partnership with Trentino Trasporti. Having carried nearly 56,000 passengers in 2025, the service restarts on 29 May and runs through to 31 December. On 17 June, Rivetta also returns — the shuttle linking the Rivetta/Baltera car park to the centre of Riva del Garda, putting the beaches within easy reach while leaving the car outside the congested zone.
On the Lombardy side, the strategy centres on the water. Navigazione Laghi has unveiled an industrial plan for 2025–2029 worth nearly 120 million euros, aimed at strengthening public lake navigation as a genuine alternative to the car. In 2024 alone, roughly 100,000 vehicles were kept off the roads thanks to the scheduled lake service.
The most efficient formula for those travelling from Verona: train Verona–Peschiera del Garda (around 15 minutes, high frequency), then a ferry towards the lake villages. No queues, no paid parking, direct arrival at the lakefront.
Dossier 3 — Three Verona alleys that no guidebook truly marks
Staying in the centre comes with an advantage worth more than any app: the early morning hours, when the historic centre still belongs to the Veronesi. Three corners to add to the list, in order of walking distance.
Volto Barbaro, between Piazza delle Erbe and Via Pellicciai. Between Piazza delle Erbe and Piazza dei Signori opens a narrow passageway known as Volto Barbaro, one of the oldest alleys in the city. The name derives from a mysterious carved head set into the stone wall, observed for centuries with curiosity and a certain unease. The alley is also remembered for a dramatic episode: it was here, in 1277, that Mastino I della Scala was assassinated. Detour time: two and a half minutes. Impact: it stays with you for days.
Corticella Vetri, in the heart of Veronetta. Walking along Vicolo Vetri leads to Corticella Vetri: a small public courtyard with a well and an olive tree, stone walls — it feels like stepping back in time. Tourists don't tend to end up here; those who do have often taken a wrong turn. It is public, quiet, and during Tocatì it becomes the perfect counterpoint to the noise of the main squares.
Fondazione Miniscalchi Erizzo, near Piazza delle Erbe. Down an almost anonymous alley a stone's throw from Piazza delle Erbe lies the Fondazione Miniscalchi Erizzo. Weekday visitors often find themselves the sole guest, free to wander alone through eleven rooms plus the atrium: archaeology, books, armour, sacred art — all within the same palazzo. The detail that catches everyone off guard: there are Russian icons. They seem out of place, but the ancient Miniscalchi family were significant art collectors.
When is the best time to explore the alleys?
Before 9:00 or after 18:00. The historic centre shifts register entirely: the guided groups with their coloured umbrellas disappear, and the Veronesi arrive with their coffee.
Is Tocatì suitable for children?
Yes, it is designed for all ages. Traditional games are learned on the spot, with instructors from the visiting communities. No booking, no cost.
How do you get to Garda from Verona without a car?
Train from Verona Porta Nuova to Peschiera del Garda (around 15 minutes, services every 30–60 minutes). From Peschiera, scheduled ferries towards Sirmione, Bardolino, Torri del Benaco. Tickets can be combined and purchased online.
For your stay in Verona in September — or at any other time of year — the apartments at The Verona Stay are located in the heart of the historic centre: close to the Arena and the Teatro Ristori, just a short walk from the alleys described above and from the station for Garda.