There is a legend that circulates in the osterie of Verona — unwritten, only whispered — according to which a guest has not truly understood the city until they have finished a plate of bigoli col musso with a gòto of Valpolicella alongside. An exaggeration, certainly. But not entirely: certain dishes work like keys. This is one of them.
What bigoli al torchio are and why the Veronese version is different
Bigoli are thick fresh spaghettoni, hand-extruded through the bigolaro — a cylindrical wooden press with a bronze die, patented in 1604 by the Paduan pasta-maker Bartolomio Veronese, nicknamed Abbondanza. The rough, porous surface that the press imprints on the dough is not an aesthetic detail: it is the reason the sauce does not slide off, but instead wedges itself into the pasta and stays there, with every forkful.
The Veronese version stands apart from the rest of the Veneto in its sauces: in Padua a farmyard ragù is used, in the upper Vicentino duck, but in the Veronese the tradition splits in two. On one side, bigoli con le sardele — sardines dissolved in oil with onion, deglazed with a white Custoza — once reserved for Christmas Eve and the Fridays of Lent, when the Church forbade meat. On the other, bigoli col musso, the most Veronese sauce of all: a stracotto of donkey macerated in red wine for an entire day, then cooked over the lowest possible heat for three hours, until it becomes a dense, dark ragù. Musso, in dialect, means donkey: a working animal, then a table animal, out of historical necessity transformed into tradition.
Where to eat them in Verona: the right street is Sottoriva
If you are in the city with an hour to spare, head towards via Sottoriva. It is the medieval street that runs parallel to the Adige, from the Basilica di Sant'Anastasia towards the Teatro Romano: low stone porticoes, wooden tables that spill outside in summer, and the scent of wine and meat broth filtering from the kitchens. This is where some of the most authentic trattorias of Verona's historic centre are concentrated.
Sottoriva23 works beneath the medieval porticoes of this street with the formula of a traditional trattoria and a wide selection of local wines. Il Vecio Mulin, tucked into a recess of the same street, looks directly out onto the bank of the Adige with panoramic tables facing Castel San Pietro and the Teatro Romano. Both offer Veronese cooking without frills. Closer to the Arena, the Taverna di Via Stella serves bigoli with knife-cut duck — between 12 and 14 euros for a first course — and fettuccine col musso for those who want to compare the cuts.
A local's tip: arrive at 12:30 or 19:30 — a quarter of an hour before the peak. Tables under the porticoes fill up quickly in summer, and the best ones — those at the edge, catching the light of the long June evenings — are the most sought after.
How to recognise real bigoli and what to drink alongside
A bigolo al torchio can be identified by touch even before taste: it is thick, irregular, with a matt and slightly rough surface under the fingers. It is not smooth like industrial pasta. At the bite it has resistance, almost demanding to be chewed. If it is too soft, it is ordinary fresh pasta extruded mechanically — technically the same, sensorially different.
In summer, with bigoli alle sardele, the right wine is a Custoza or a Soave Classico: fresh whites that cut through the saltiness of the fish without masking it. With the musso ragù, on the other hand, you move to a more structured red: a Valpolicella Superiore or, if the sauce is particularly intense, even a sip of young Amarone — the sauce in the pan almost calls for it. True Veronesi uncork the wine before sitting down: the glass must already be there when the plate arrives.
One last detail that makes all the difference: bigoli col musso are eaten without hurry. They are not a quick first course. They are a first course that waits, that cools if you ignore it, that tells the story of Veneto peasant cooking one spoonful of ragù at a time. Ordering them under the porticoes of Sottoriva, while the evening light lengthens the shadows over the Adige, is one of those moments when Verona stops being a postcard and becomes a real place.
How much do bigoli cost in Verona?
In traditional trattorias in the city centre, a first course of bigoli al torchio can be found indicatively between 10 and 15 euros, depending on the sauce and the restaurant. Duck ragù and musso are generally the more expensive options; sardele remains the most economical version and often the most ancient.
Can you find bigoli al torchio in summer too?
Yes. Unlike some winter dishes (such as bollito with pearà), bigoli are served year-round in Veronese trattorias. In summer they are almost ubiquitous on menus, often offered with lighter sauces or seasonal variations.
Are Veronese bigoli different from Paduan ones?
The pasta is the same in shape and technique. The difference lies in the sauce: Padua uses farmyard ragù, Verona relies on stracotto di asino and sardele. Two traditions of the same family, each with its own character.
For your next stay in Verona, the apartments of The Verona Stay — in Via Roma 21 near the Arena or a short walk from the Teatro Ristori — put you 10 minutes on foot from via Sottoriva and the entire historic centre. Book at theveronastay.it and sit down to eat with all the time you deserve.