There are two Veronas in August. There is the one tourists see — full of sun, foreign voices on Piazza Bra, operatic evenings at the Arena — and then there is the city that the Veronese leave behind. The historic shops along Via Mazzini pull down their shutters, neighbourhood bars stay closed, traffic dissolves. It is a strange and beautiful Verona, slower, quieter in the midday hours, a city that asks to be read with different eyes.
August in Verona: what to really expect
The short answer: August is the month of the Arena, not of the city as locals live it. The civic museums stay open — Castelvecchio (10–18), Casa di Giulietta (9–19), the Museo di Storia Naturale and the Galleria d'Arte Moderna Achille Forti, generally open from 10 to 18 — but many historic businesses in the old town reduce their hours or close altogether around the 15th. Even in the city centre, some owners weigh up whether it is worth keeping the shutters up over Ferragosto or not: the decision often depends on how the season has gone.
On the other hand, evenings at the Arena are the beating heart of the month. The Arena Opera Festival runs from June to September 2026, with over fifty performances spread across three months. August has a packed calendar: Turandot is staged on 7, 14, 21 and 27 August, while Orff's Carmina Burana is scheduled for 13 August, and the new immersive concert Paganini Paradise makes its world premiere on 18 August, followed by VivaVivaldi on 19 August with spectacular three-dimensional projections.
My advice, as a Veronese: enjoy Verona in the early morning. Piazza delle Erbe at 7.30 — when the fruit sellers are unloading their crates and tourists are still asleep — is a sight few visitors ever see. The heat is bearable, the light is golden, and the city is yours.
Tocatì 2026: why it is worth extending your stay into September
If August is the month of the Arena, September is the month Verona becomes itself again — and it does so spectacularly. On Friday 18, Saturday 19 and Sunday 20 September, the Veronetta neighbourhood will be transformed into a vast urban space devoted to traditional games, hosting the twenty-fourth edition of the Tocatì — Festival Internazionale dei Giochi in Strada. The guest of honour this year is Ireland, with its traditional games, music and dance.
The name itself — Tocatì — comes from the Veronese dialect and means "your turn". It is a literal invitation: this is not a spectator event in the traditional sense — visitors are expected to roll up their sleeves, learn the rules and play. Over 100 activities are planned across three days of celebration spread throughout the neighbourhood, where every alleyway, every square and every courtyard becomes a stage for living heritage.
Following the success of 2025, Tocatì will renew its contemporary take on play: Ireland will be at the centre of a rich programme weaving together ludic practices, music and dance. On the schedule are workshops in Uilleann Pipes (Irish bagpipes) and clàirseach (Celtic harp), both traditions recognised as UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage.
Free admission, no booking required. Activities typically begin late morning and continue until the evening, with the most lively moments in the afternoon and after dinner. Arriving in the first part of the day, or visiting on the Friday, guarantees a more relaxed atmosphere.
The 2026 novelty: Casa Tocatì will also open, a new space in the Parco delle Colombare conceived as a permanent centre dedicated to traditional play and sport.
August or September: which is the better time to visit?
It depends on what you are looking for. August offers the Arena in full season, a more international city, and museums open every day. September brings milder temperatures, the return of the Veronese, and the authentic energy of Tocatì in the heart of Veronetta. The ideal combination? A few days straddling both seasons.
Is Tocatì suitable for families with children?
The programme offers board games and urban spaces dedicated to children, alongside theatre, music and dance performances, and the Osteria del Gioco where culinary tradition and conviviality come together. It is probably one of the summer events best suited to children of any age.
How to reach the Veronetta neighbourhood for Tocatì?
Veronetta is less than 10 minutes on foot from the historic centre, across the Adige. The practical advice: walk from the centre — via Ponte Pietra or Ponte Garibaldi — and leave your car outside the ZTL. The streets are closed to traffic for the entire duration of the festival.
If you are planning a stay between August and September, the apartments at The Verona Stay — near the Arena (Via Roma 21) and the Teatro Ristori — place you at the heart of both experiences: opera evenings just steps away, and Veronetta within easy walking distance for Tocatì.