Everyone goes to Vinitaly and spends the whole day at the fairgrounds. But those who arrive early in the morning — by train from Milan, suitcase already dropped at the hotel — have four hours of an almost deserted Verona ahead of them. No tourist coaches, no queues, no selfie sticks in front of the Arena. Just the city waking up, bars rolling up their shutters, the pink marble of Piazza Bra still damp with dew. This is the itinerary for those who know how to make the most of those four hours.
From Verona Porta Nuova to Piazza Bra: the first 30 minutes matter
The train from Milan — Frecciarossa or Italo — takes around 1 hour and 55 minutes: leave at 7 and you're already in Verona by 9, fresh and awake. If you're arriving by train, the most convenient option is to alight at Verona Porta Nuova: the centre is reachable on foot in about 15–20 minutes. Don't take the bus: the walk along Corso Porta Nuova is straight, flat and leads you directly under the Portoni della Bra — the medieval gateway that throws Piazza Bra open before your eyes.
Before even reaching the Arena, stop for breakfast. Down a small alley behind the Arena you'll find Café Martél: the right spot for a break any time from breakfast to aperitivo, with carefully made espresso and a display of pastries and bite-sized sweets. Alternatively, Pasticcerie Flego — renowned for their exceptional quality, with a branch in Via Roma — offer a wide selection of Veronese specialities such as torta russa, baci di Giulietta e Romeo and amaretti. Both options ease you into the Veronese rhythm: cappuccino at the counter, a few words with the barista, and off you go.
At 9:15, when you step into Piazza Bra, something happens that is impossible in summer: you see it whole. Arriving out of season, you grasp the true scale of the space in a way that the summer crowds make impossible. On the Liston — the celebrated pink marble pavement — you can stroll without jostling between open-air cafés and the greenery of the central gardens. April, moreover, brings mild temperatures and perfect morning light for photography.
The Arena di Verona at 9: why it's the best time, full stop
The Anfiteatro Arena is open Tuesday to Sunday from 9:00 to 19:00, except on days when performances are scheduled. Arriving at opening time — or just after — means having the terraces to yourself. That's no small detail: you'll explore the internal corridors, the vomitoria — the exits through which Roman audiences filed out after shows — and you'll appreciate the gradient of the tiers that allowed twenty-five thousand people to see everything without amplification.
The standard ticket costs around 10–12 euros [⚠ CHECK the museiverona.com website for updated 2026 prices]. Groups and over-65s pay around 9 euros, young people aged 18–25 pay 3 euros, and under-17s enter free. If you want to avoid any wait, booking online secures your entry time and helps you skip the queues. Allow 45 minutes for a relaxed visit: time to climb to the uppermost tiers, take in Piazza Bra from above and descend without rushing. By 10:15 you're already outside.
A note for the Vinitaly period (12–15 April 2026): Vinitaly transforms Verona into a world capital of wine, with events spilling beyond the fairgrounds, such as Vinitaly and the City. This means more movement in the centre, but also more life — wine bars open early, tastings in the squares, a particular energy you can feel even 15 minutes' walk from the fair.
From Via Mazzini to Piazza delle Erbe: the perfect circuit for those with little time
Leaving the Arena, head north along Via Mazzini. It's the shopping street, but at 10 in the morning it's quiet — shopkeepers opening up, the odd runner, the paving stones still clear. 8 minutes on foot and you reach Piazza delle Erbe, the ancient Roman forum turned market. Piazza delle Erbe is surrounded by frescoed buildings and medieval towers, and just beyond lies Piazza dei Signori, enclosed by the palaces of Scaligero and Venetian power with a statue of Dante at its centre.
A few steps away you encounter the Arche Scaligere, the monumental tombs of the city's lords, with narrow lanes that blend Roman arches, Gothic loggias and Renaissance facades. This triangle — Erbe, Signori, Arche — takes 30–40 minutes at a leisurely pace. It's the moment to understand what sets Verona apart from any other city in northern Italy: the layering. Roman, medieval, Renaissance, all stacked on top of one another in a space you can cross on foot in ten minutes.
At 11:15 you still have time to spare. If you're up for an extra, you can cross Ponte Pietra and climb to Castel San Pietro to see the city from above — but bear in mind you'll need at least another hour. With a 13:00 departure, it's better to stay in the centre and sit somewhere with a spritz or a glass of Soave: the Veneto is right on the doorstep, the wine is good even at lunch, and the Veronese know it well.
How long does it take to reach the station from the Arena?
From the station to the central area the average walk is 15–20 minutes; the distance to Piazza Bra is around 1.6 km. Allow at least 20 minutes' buffer for train check-in and boarding: leave the centre no later than 12:35.
Is Vinitaly open to the general public?
The international wine fair opens its doors to both trade visitors and the public. Opening hours run from 9:30 to 18:30 — but with a morning window of just 4 hours, it's better to prioritise the historic centre and save the fair for a dedicated visit.
Is the Verona Card worth it?
The Verona Card gives access to the main monuments and museums and costs 20 euros for 24 hours: it's good value because you enter everywhere without queuing and can visit multiple sites in the same day. With only 4 hours available and just one paid admission (the Arena), you'll probably not recoup the cost — unless you want to add the Torre dei Lamberti or a museum.
If you're looking for somewhere to stay for a night before or after Vinitaly — or simply to sleep in the historic centre without catching the first train at dawn — The Verona Stay Arena, at Via Roma 21 a stone's throw from Piazza Bra, is exactly where you'd want to wake up at 8:30 and walk to the Arena in three minutes.