July in Verona is beautiful and unforgiving at the same time. The sun warms the white stone alleyways, the Arena lights up the night, and families who arrive without booking anything in advance end up eating an uninspired pizza in front of a screen showing the wrong cartoon — while the show they wanted to see at the Arena sold out a month ago. Three bookings. One precise order. Here's how it's done.
First booking: the Arena in July — even before you know where you'll be sleeping
This is where most people go wrong, and where the mistake is hardest to fix. Tickets for the 103° Arena Opera Festival 2026 — scheduled from 12 June to 12 September — sell out months in advance, especially for July dates. The programme is one that leaves no one indifferent: La Traviata (5, 9, 16 and 31 July), Aida in the "crystal" staging by Stefano Poda (2, 10, 19 and 24 July), Nabucco (4, 12, 18 and 23 July). On 21 July Roberto Bolle performs his dance evening: seats are extremely limited and go like ice in August.
With children, the local advice is to choose La Traviata or Nabucco: a more manageable running time for younger ones, visually spectacular, without the narrative complexity that wears out anyone under twelve. Book through the official website arena.it and, if you want a comfortable seat without marble steps, opt for the numbered seats in the stalls (Arena Gold or Poltrona). The stone terraces are evocative, but three hours do take their toll on your knees — and on restless children.
Local tip: always bring a light jacket for everyone. The Arena gets cold quickly after 10 pm, even in July, and you'll still be there well past midnight.
Second booking: the Michelin-starred restaurant — not on the same evening
The classic mistake is booking the fine-dining dinner on the same day as the performance. Verona has a gastronomic scene of the highest calibre: the 2026 Michelin Guide awards no fewer than eight addresses in the area, with Casa Perbellini 12 Apostoli retaining its Three Stars (Vicolo Corticella S. Marco 3, a short walk from the historic centre) and Il Desco — Via Dietro San Sebastiano 5/7 — consistently holding its star for over thirty years.
A dinner at Perbellini starts at 8 pm and rarely ends before 11. The Arena opens its gates from 7:15 pm, with the curtain rising at 9:15 pm. The maths simply doesn't work, and the rush always ends up ruining both experiences. Book your starred dinner the evening before or the evening after the performance. This is not a compromise: it's the difference between savouring every course and swallowing it while watching the clock.
Il Desco, in particular, lends itself well to families with children over ten — contemporary cuisine rooted in the great Venetian tradition, an elegant but relaxed setting, attentive service. For younger children it may be premature: better to wait for the right age and truly enjoy every course.
Third booking: the family-friendly restaurant — the afternoon of the show
On the evening of the performance, logistics matter more than stars. You want to eat by 8:00 pm, close to the Arena, somewhere the child can finish their gnocco without the waiter rolling their eyes. Verona's historic centre offers some concrete options for families:
- Piazza Bra and surroundings: the restaurants along the western side of Piazza Bra are pushchair-friendly, have outdoor tables, and a menu ranging from fresh pasta to grilled dishes. Service starts earlier (from 7:00 pm) than in the trattorias deeper in the centre.
- Quartiere San Zeno: about a 10-minute walk from the Arena, quieter and less crowded with opera-night tourists. Trattorias serving authentic Veronese cuisine — bigoli all'asina, risotto all'Amarone — with staff who won't flinch at a simplified order for the children.
- The smart timing: sit down at exactly 7:00 pm. From 7:30 pm onwards, restaurants around the Arena fill up with evening-attired opera-goers. At 7 pm you'll find an attentive waiter and a kitchen firing on all cylinders.
A practical note: if you have young children who might not last until the end, stalls seats with a side exit allow you to slip out without disturbing others. Mention this at the box office when choosing your seats.
How far in advance should I book the Arena?
For July 2026, at least 2 to 3 months ahead. The most popular dates (Roberto Bolle on 21 July, opening nights of each opera) sell out even earlier. Tickets are available directly on arena.it, with no agency surcharge.
Is the Michelin-starred restaurant suitable for children?
It depends on the age and the venue. Il Desco welcomes composed families, but it is a 2-to-3-hour experience to be enjoyed at a leisurely pace. Consider it for children over 10, or use it as an adults-only dinner on an evening when the little ones are looked after. Casa Perbellini is even more formal: it is the choice for parents without children in tow.
Where should we stay to be close to both the Arena and the restaurants in the centre?
The area around Piazza Bra and Via Roma is the most strategic: five minutes on foot from the Arena, ten from the main restaurants in the historic centre. Everything is walkable, with no need to navigate the ZTL restrictions.
If you are planning your stay in Verona for July, The Verona Stay has apartments in the heart of the city — the Arena Stay is at Via Roma 21, literally five minutes from the amphitheatre. Everything you need within walking distance.